Mortgages...
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Mortgage Prequalification and Preapproval

Why get prequalified and then preapproved for a mortgage before you begin your search for a home? Because there are 3 people who will benefit from your preapproval: You, your Agent, and the seller from whom you eventually buy a home!

You: The most important beneficiary, of course, is you. One of the most common questions we get from users of this site goes something along the lines of "Please let us know how much house we can afford." We're stumped! Why? There are simply too many variables--credit history, income, debt, special mortgage programs and variations in qualifying guidelines between different mortgage types--to answer that question. The only sure way of getting the question answered is through prequalification. The mortgage prequalification step is a relatively simple one, but it is an important one. It begins the process of formally applying for a mortgage, and it gives everyone involved--especially you--a clear sense of the direction they should be headed.

Your Agent: By knowing what your financial parameters are, your Agent can spend more time looking for houses that "fit" and less time pursuing dead ends. No matter how much you might want a 4000 square foot home for $275,000, if your qualifications say $125,000, your qualifications say $125,000. When it comes to mortgages, "yes, but" doesn't carry much weight!

The Seller: Want to strengthen your bargaining position? Get prequalified. Want your offer to stand out in a case of multiple offers for the same house? Get prequalified. Look at it from the seller's perspective. If you had 2 offers on the table for your house, one from a fully prequalified buyer and the other from an "I'll get around to that soon" buyer--to which offer would you devote the most attention? Even if the prequalified buyer's offer was $1000 less, would you take the chance on the buyer that perhaps may not be qualified? When it comes to a seller evaluating offers, "a bird in the hand..." definitely applies.

It is important to remember that the amount of mortgage you will qualify for is the maximum. It is the amount that the lender feels you can afford, but it is not necessarily the amount that you want to pay. It sometimes is advantageous to be conservative here. For example, if you qualify for a $100,000 mortgage and you have $15,000 available in cash for downpayment and closing costs, you are qualified to buy homes with a maximum selling price of $115,000. So as to not push yourself to the limit, you may want to look at homes that sell in the $100,000 to $110,000 range. Too many buyers simply rush off to the $115,000 level and some find themselves strapped when it comes time to purchase necessary items (such as draperies, additional furniture and lawn and garden tools, for example) or when they forget to factor in increases in monthly expenses (for example utilities and maintenance and repair costs).

Finding Preapprovals: Virtually every lender will be able to process preapproval for you, or you can use the power of the Internet and begin the process of preapproval at LendingTree, where you submit one easy loan request form and receive up to 4 offers from lending institutions competing for your business, all online.

Choosing a Mortgage

Choosing among the many houses that may be available is hard enough--then you need to make a choice from the myriad of mortgages that are offered in today's market. So many decisions! Take heart, though, since although there are literally hundreds of different mortgages available, they all fall into only a few basic varieties. Some may fit perfectly into your situation, others may be unwise or unattainable. By narrowing your choices, the process of picking the right mortgage becomes much easier.

Fixed Rate or Adjustable

One of your first decisions should be between a fixed rate (the interest rate remains constant through the life of the mortgage) or an adjustable (the interest rate is adjusted--either up or down--at specified times during the mortgage term). Adjustable Rate Mortgages (ARMs) will have an initial interest rate lower than fixed rates but will adjust upward (unless rates really fall!) usually after the first year. They may be a good choice if you are sure that you will not be owning the home for an extended period (more than 5-7 years) of time.

Terms: 15, 20 or 30 years

You will probably want to shoot for the shortest term that is comfortable (and for which you will qualify). The interest savings are enormous as the term decreases. Always make a comparison between a 15 year term payment and a 30 year term payment. The difference is often surprisingly smaller than anticipated. The savings over the term of the loan, however, can be substantial. For example, comparing a 15 year term to a 30 year term, $100,000 mortgage at an 8 1/2% fixed rate yields the following results.

HINT: If you can't qualify for a shorter term try to add at least the amount of 1 additional payment per year--this will knock nearly 10 years off a 30 year loan.

Common Loan Types: Conventional, FHA, VA and "No-Document"

Conventional: A "traditional" mortgage, not directly insured by the Federal Government. Most conventional loans under $275,000 are administered through Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac (private corporations but regulated by the government). Those loans over that amount are designated "jumbo loans" and are funded by the private investment market.

FHA: Insured by (but not funded by) the Federal Housing Administration (FHA) a division of the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), and designed for, in general, low- and middle-income borrowers and many first-time buyers. There are, however, limits (which vary from county to county) to the maximum loan amount. On January 1, 2000 HUD began insuring home mortgage loans of up to $121,296 in communities where housing costs are relatively low, and loans ranging up to $219,849 in communities where housing costs are relatively high. FHA loans have somewhat more relaxed qualifying standards and ratios than conventional loans and have the availability of both 15 and 30 year fixed as well as 1 year adjustable mortgages.

VA: For those qualified by military service, the Veterans Administration (VA) insures (but does not fund) 15 and 30 year fixed as well as 1 year adjustable mortgages with lower down payment requirements (as low as 0 down) and somewhat more lenient qualifying ratios.

No-Document ("No-doc) Loans:No-doc mortgages are generally a wise choice for self-employed people, those who do not wish to verify their income, and those with a brief or blemished credit history, or no credit. The benefits of a no-doc mortgage include a shorter application process since you are not required to provide income, employment or asset documentation, as well as a streamlined approval process because there is little subsequent verification. However, no doc mortgages generally will be at slightly higher interest rates and are offered by fewer lenders.

Points or No Points

A large component of your mortgage decision has to do with one of the first charges associated with your loan--even before you make your first payment--the "points" attached to the mortgage. A point is 1% of the loan amount, paid to the lender or the mortgage broker at closing (in cash).

Mortgage Comparisons

Once you have a general idea of the type of mortgage that best suits your situation, the next step is to begin to make comparisons among the lenders that are available. Weekend newspapers will often have the rates of individual local lenders posted in their Real Estate section. To get the specifics of each lender's rate and term, you can contact the bank or mortgage company directly. Another source is a mortgage broker in your area, who will often represent a number of sources of mortgage funds and can assist you in your choice.

Mortgage Questions

Some of the most commonly asked questions about mortgages

What are the differences between mortgage prequalification, preapproval and final loan approval? Prequalification is the process where the lender will look at a basic copy of your credit report and use the information you supply to determine how much mortgage you can afford based on your income. No accounts or employment information is verified. Preapproval occurs when all credit and employment is verified and the mortgage is approved, subject to the appraisal of the property you have chosen to buy. Final loan approval occurs when the property has been appraised, all documentation is in the hands of the lender and all contingencies have been met.

What first-time buyer programs are available? Many first-time buyer programs are locally developed and administered. Your state, province or local community is much more likely to have a program available than on a national level. Your Agent can generally review with you the availability of programs in your area.

There seem to be so many mortgage programs and offers available. How can I compare them? This can be confusing! You will want to consult a few sources, including a local bank that has mortgage availability and a mortgage broker, who will deal with several different lenders. In addition, you may want use one of the online sources such as LendingTree, who deal with numerous lenders throughout the U.S. Through a single brief loan request form, you can get up to 4 offers from lenders competing for your business.

Can I use my IRA retirement funds for a downpayment on a house? For most first time buyers, you can use the funds in these retirement accounts without penalty.

According to the IRS, If both husband and wife are first-time homebuyers, they each can withdraw up to $10,000 for qualified acquisition costs penalty-free for a first home.

Qualified acquisition costs. Qualified acquisition costs include the following items.

• Costs of buying, building, or rebuilding a home.
• Any usual or reasonable settlement, financing, or other closing costs.

First-time homebuyer. A first-time homebuyer is, generally, any individual (and his or her spouse, if married) who had no present ownership interest in a main home during the 2-year period ending on the date the individual acquires the main home to which these rules apply.

Should I pay points? Along with the interest rate, the number of points (up-front interest) is an important consideration when comparing mortgages.

What mortgage options are there for those with poor credit? There are lenders available for many of those with tarnished credit records. One of the mistakes commonly made by homebuyers involves their credit report. Some buyers assume that their credit is worse than it really is, and may well have been able to secure a more advantageous mortgage. Other buyers are unaware of problems in their credit report and need to scramble to get the problems handled. You can avoid many of these hassles by getting a copy of your credit report up-front and examining it both for errors that need to be corrected and accounts that need to be handled.

I hear about these different "ratios" when qualifying for a mortgage. What are front and back ratios? Part of the mortgage application process will be the determination of how much house you can afford based on your income. The two ratios that will be computed are the front ratio and the back ratio.

• Front Ratio: The total mortgage payment including principal, interest, taxes and insurance (PITI) as well as any condominium or homeowner association fees divided by your total GROSS income. Traditionally this ratio must be below 28% Example: With a gross income of $3700 per month, a total mortgage payment (PITI) of $973, the front ratio would be 26%.
• Back Ratio: The total mortgage payment PLUS any car payments, credit card and any other loan payments divided by your total GROSS income. Traditionally must be below 36%. Example: With a gross income of $3700 per month, a total mortgage payment of $973, a car payment of $212, 1 credit card payment of $59 and 1 credit card payment of $43 for a total of $1287 with a back ratio of 35%.

What options are there for buyers with no money down and no cash for closing costs? Although there are some new programs that allow buyers to purchase a home with little or no cash, you will generally need some funds for downpayment, closing costs or both. Since a mortgage payment will take a good percentage of your income, lenders will usually want you to be "involved" (meaning having your money involved) from the very beginning. There are options for low downpayment (5% or less) mortgages such as FHA mortgages and there is always the possibility that the seller could absorb some of your closing costs (which are usually 3-5% of the selling price) but to buy a home with no cash down is a rare occurance. If you have cash for closing costs, though, and excellent credit, there are new options in the conventional loan arena.

Mortgage Hints

 Don't build yourself a mortgage mountain. It's fine to want the best home you can afford, but be certain that it is comfortable affordability. Although you may find certain mortgage lenders who will stretch your qualification ratios (the ratio of your total mortgage payment to your total income), the traditional ratios--the mortgage payment as 28% of your income and the total of your mortgage payment plus your monthly debt payments as 36% of your income--are good basic guidelines.

Get your budget under control. Spending some time reviewing your budget (or developing one if you don't already have it) and sharpening your money saving skills can bring big rewards later. A coordinated budget allows you to get the most home for your money without strapping yourself while eliminating wasteful spending.

Prepare to pay off small debts. Having 3 credit card balances, for example, one with a $125 balance, a second with a $165 balance and a third with $275 balance will only cloud the picture. Even though the total is only $565, all 3 will have minimum payments, credit lines, etc. If possible, prepare to pay them down to $0 balances.

Begin to gather documentation. It is not necessary that you have all items on hand before you apply, but there are a number of documents you will need eventually and the approval process will go much smoother if you begin to gather them now. Examples: W-2's and income tax returns from the last few years (especially if you are self-employed), copies of pay stubs, a copy of your credit report, records of any child support or alimony (either going out or coming in) and bank statements for all accounts (checking and saving) for the last several months.

Don't forget about closing costs. In addition to your downpayment, you will need to reserve funds for closing costs. Depending on the type of loan and your location, these costs can range from 2-5% of the mortgage amount, will be paid in cash at the closing and cannot be borrowed funds.

Compare. There are lots of sources for mortgage funds--be sure to make comparisons. Your local bank or credit union, mortgage brokers and Internet resources --where you can get up to 4 offers from lenders competing for your business--are all available. Be certain to compare equal terms, downpayments and loan types.

Consider points when comparing. Your total mortgage cost will be determined by 3 factors: The interest rate, the term and the amount of points.

Get educated! Securing a mortgage is not all that complicated, but if you approach it blind, mistakes can be very expensive! Get as much information as you possibly can...whether from friends or relatives that have secured mortgages recently, from books and articles.

Consider a 15 or 20 year term. Many home buyers make the assumption that a shorter term will boost their payments out of reach. Unless you make the comparison, though, you may never know if a 15 or 20 year (if available) term could have been affordable.  If you are concerned about committing to the higher payment of a shorter term, try this tactic: Mortgage the home with a 30 year loan but have the lender develop a 15 and a 30 year amortization sheet for you. Then, do your best to pay the mortgage at the shorter term payment. It will do wonders for your equity position!

Adjustable Rate Mortgages (ARMs). If you are certain that you are going to be in the house for a short time (less than 5 years for example) strongly consider an Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM). You will take full advantage of the lower intital rate and not be as concerned about rate increases since you will have moved when they begin to take effect. Tailor your ARM's first adjustment period to the time you will be in the house.

                                                            Glossary of Mortgage Terms


 

Adjustable Rate--An interest rate that changes periodically in relation to an index. Payments may increase or decrease accordingly.

Amortization--A repayment method in which the amount you borrow is repaid gradually though regular monthly payments of principal and interest. During the first few years, most of each payment is applied toward the interest owed. During the final years of the loan, payment amounts are applied almost exclusively to the remaining principal.

Annual Membership--An amount that may be charged annually for having a line of credit available. Often charged regardless of whether or not you use the line. Also referred to as a "participation fee."

Annual Percentage Rate (APR)--The cost of credit on a yearly basis, expressed as a percentage. Required to be disclosed by the lender under the federal Truth in Lending Act, Regulation Z. Includes up-front costs paid to obtain the loan, and is, therefore, usually a higher amount than the interest rate stipulated in the mortgage note. Does not include title insurance, appraisal, and credit report.

Application--An initial statement of personal and financial information which is required to approve your loan.

Application Fee--Fees that are paid upon application. An application fee may frequently include charges for property appraisal ($200-$400) and a credit report ($30-50).

Appraisal--A fee charged by an appraiser to render an opinion of market value as of a specific date. Required by most lenders to obtain a loan.

Assumption of Mortgage--The agreement of a purchaser to become primarily liable for the payments on a mortgage loan. Unless otherwise specified by the lender, the seller may remain secondarily liable for payments.

Balloon Payment--A lump sum payment for the unpaid balance of the loan.

Cap--The maximum allowable increase, for either payment or interest rate, for a specified amount of time on an adjustable rate mortgage.

Cash Out--Receiving money back when refinancing your present mortgage.

Ceiling--The maximum allowable interest rate over the life of the loan of an adjustable rate mortgage.

Closing Costs--Any fees paid by the borrowers or sellers during the closing of the mortgage loan. This normally includes an origination fee, discount points, attorney's fees, title insurance, survey, and any items which must be prepaid, such as taxes and insurance escrow payments.

Conforming Loan--Generally, a mortgage loan under $203,150. Qualifying ratios and underwriting methods are standardized to a large degree.

Contract of Sale--The agreement between the buyer and seller on the purchase price, terms, and conditions necessary to both parties to convey the title to the buyer.

Credit Limit--The maximum amount that you can borrow under a home equity plan.

Debt Service--The total amount of credit card, auto, mortgage or other debt upon which you must pay.

Deed of Trust--Used in many western states, the agreement used to pledge your home or other real estate as security for a loan. Similar to a mortgage.

Discount Points (or Points)--The amount paid either to maintain or lower the interest rate charged. Each point is equal to one percent (1%) of the loan amount (i.e., two points on a $100,000 mortgage would equal $2,000).

Down Payment--The difference between the purchase price and that portion of the purchase price being financed. Most lenders require the down payment to be paid from the buyer's own funds. Gifts from related parties are sometimes acceptable, and must be disclosed to the lender.

Due on Sale--A clause in a mortgage agreement providing that, if the mortgagor (the borrower) sells, transfers, or, in some instances, encumbers the property, the mortgagee (the lender) has the right to demand the outstanding balance in full.

Effective Interest Rate--The cost of credit on a yearly basis expressed as a percentage. Includes up-front costs paid to obtain the loan, and is, therefore, usually a higher amount than the interest rate stipulated in the mortgage note. Useful in comparing loan programs with different rates and points.

Encumbrance--A claim against a property by another party which usually affects the ability to transfer ownership of the property.

Equity--The difference between the fair market value (appraised value) of your home and your outstanding mortgage balance.

First Mortgage--A mortgage which is in first lien position, taking priority over all other liens (which are financial encumbrances).

Fixed Rate--An interest rate which is fixed for the term of the loan. Payments as well are fixed at one amount.

FHA Loan--More appropriately termed "FHA Insured Loan." A loan for which the Federal Housing Administration insures the lender against losses the lender may incur due to your default.

Good Faith Estimate--A written estimate of closing costs which a lender must provide you within three days of submitting an application.

Grace Period--A period of time during which a loan payment may be paid after its due date but not incur a late penalty. Such late payments may be reported on your credit report.

Gross Income--For qualifying purposes, the income of the borrower before taxes or expenses are deducted.

Home Equity Line of Credit--A loan providing you with the ability to borrow funds at the time and in the amount you choose, up to a maximum credit limit for which you have qualified. Repayment is secured by the equity in your home. Simple interest (interest-only payments on the outstanding balance) is usually tax-deductible. Often used for home improvements, major purchases or expenses, and debt consolidation.

Home Equity Loan--A fixed or adjustable rate loan obtained for a variety of purposes, secured by the equity in your home. Interest paid is usually tax -deductible. Often used for home improvement or freeing of equity for investment in other real estate or investment. Recommended by many to replace or substitute for consumer loans whose interest is not tax-deductible, such as auto or boat loans, credit card debt, medical debt, and education loans.

Hazard Insurance--A contract between purchaser and an insurer, to compensate the insured for loss of property due to hazards (fire, hail damage, etc.), for a premium.

HUD I Settlement Statement--A form utilized at loan closing to itemize the costs associated with purchasing the home. Used universally by mandate of HUD, the Department of Housing and Urban Development.

Index--A number, usually a percentage, upon which future interest rates for adjustable rate mortgages are based. Common indexes include the Cost of Funds for the Eleventh Federal District of banks or the average rate of a one year Government Treasury Security.

Interest Rate--The periodic charge, expressed as a percentage, for use of credit.

Jumbo Loan--Mortgage loans over $203,150. Terms and underwriting requirements may vary from conforming loans.

Loan to Value Ratio (LTV)--A ratio determined by dividing the sales price or appraised value into the loan amount, expressed as a percentage. For example, with a sales price of $100,000 and a mortgage loan of $80,000, your loan to value ratio would be 80%. Loans with an LTV over 80% may require Private Mortgage Insurance, defined below.

Lock or Lock In--A commitment you obtain from a lender assuring you a particular interest rate or feature for a definite time period. Provides protection should interest rates rise between the time you apply for a loan, acquire loan approval, and, subsequently, close the loan and receive the funds you have borrowed.

Margin--An amount, usually a percentage, which is added to the index to determine the interest rate for adjustable rate mortgages.

Minimum Payment--The minimum amount that you must pay, usually monthly, on a home equity loan or line of credit. In some plans,the minimum payment may be "interest only," (simple interest). In other plans, the minimum payment may include principal and interest (amortized).

Mortgage Banker--Originates mortgage loans, loaning you their funds and closing the loan in their name.

Mortgage Broker--As do mortgage bankers, takes loan application and processes the necessary paperwork. Unlike a mortgage banker, brokers do not fund the loan with their own money, but work on behalf of several investors, such as mortgage bankers, S and L's, banks, or investment bankers.

Mortgage Insurance (MIP or PMI)--Insurance purchased by the borrower to insure the lender or the government against loss should you default. MIP, or Mortgage Insurance Premium, is paid on government-insured loans (FHA or VA loans) regardless of your LTV (loan-to-value). Should you pay off a government-insured loan in advance of maturity, you may be entitled to a small refund of MIP. PMI, or Private Mortgage Insurance, is paid on those loans which are not government-insured and whose LTV is greater than 80%. When you have accumulated 20% of your home's value as equity, your lender may waive PMI at your request. Please note that such insurance does not constitute a form of life insurance which pays off the loan in case of death.

Mortgage Loan--A loan which utilizes real estate as security or collateral to provide for repayment should you default on the terms of your loan. The mortgage or Deed of Trust is your agreement to pledge your home or other real estate as security.

Mortgagee--The lender in a mortgage loan transaction.

Mortgagor--The borrower in a mortgage loan transaction.

Negative Amortization--Amortization in which the payment made is insufficient to fund complete repayment of the loan at its termination. Usually occurs when the increase in the monthly payment is limited by a ceiling. The portion of the payment which should be paid is added to the remaining balance owed. The balance owed may increase, rather than decrease over the life of the loan.

PITI--Principal, interest, taxes and insurance, which comprise your monthly mortgage payment.

Points--The amount paid either to maintain or lower the interest rate charged. Each point is equal to one percent (1%) of the loan amount (i.e., two points on a $100,000 mortgage would equal $2,000).

Prepayment Penalty--A fee paid to the lending institution for paying a loan prior to the scheduled maturity date.

Qualifying Ratios--Comparisons of a borrower's debts and gross monthly income.

Right to Rescission--The legal right to void or cancel your mortgage contract in such a way as to treat the contract as if it never existed. Right of rescission is not applicable to mortgages made to purchase a home, but may be applicable to other mortgages, such as home equity loans.

Security Interest--An interest that a lender takes in the borrower's property to assure repayment of a debt.

Servicing a Loan--The ongoing process of collecting your monthly mortgage payment, including accounting for and payment of your yearly tax and/or homeowners insurance bills.

Title--The written evidence that proves the right of ownership of a specific piece of property.

Title Insurance--Protection for lenders or homeowners against financial loss resulting from legal defects in the title.

Transaction Fee--A fee which may be charged each time you draw on a home equity credit line.

Underwriting--The process of verifying data and approving a loan.

Variable Rate--An interest rate that changes periodically in relation to an index. Payments may increase or decrease accordingly.

VA Loan--More appropriately termed "VA Insured Loan." A loan for which the Veteran's Administration insures the lender against losses the lender may incur due to your default. Available only to veterans possessing a Certificate of Eligibility

Online Mortgage Loan Center

Although you cannot currently handle the entire mortgage process online (you will still need to personally sign some paperwork and attend a formal settlement) much of the process is available to you from the comfort of your home or office. You can do a loan request form, compare offers, keep up with progress of your loan process and get online prequalification and approval. By handling many of the mortgage details online, it is easier to compare rates and offers, saving much of the time and aggravation traditionally associated with mortgage applications and procedures.